Revell 30ml Decal Soft

Product Information

Once you have applied all your decals, and if you have done it correctly, they should now have the appearance of being painted on. From here, you can either leave the model with a gloss finish, or apply some weathering techniques. I use Microsol most of the time, but do keep a bottle of Solvaset handy for decals that won't comply. If you like to weather your decals, now’s the time. Google has plenty of advice on doing this if you’ve not done decal weathering before.

Jodrell’s Guide to Perfect Decals – Jodrell Plays Games Jodrell’s Guide to Perfect Decals – Jodrell Plays Games

Revell Decal Soft serves perfectly for applying transfers/decals to a model. After the decal has been positioned on a painted part of the model, using the brush in the bottle cap, apply Revell Decal Soft evenly over the decal. Due to its softening effect the decal can be adjusted to the contours of the model with a firm brush.Start off by carefully selecting the decal that you are going to place onto your model. Use a fresh hobby knife blade to cut as close to the artwork/lettering as you possibly can, so there is little or none of the unwanted clear vinyl that the self-adhesive decal is printed on. You can use a pair of scissors to cut out the decal, but you may find that a hobby knife is better suited to the task. Before you apply decals, you’ll need to have your workspace cleared and all the necessary tools on hand. Here is a list of the tools you’ll need: The Revell Decal Soft 30ml in the modelling accessories range provides a softening solutions to aid in applying decals over uneven surfaces.

Revell Decal Soft Decal Softening Solution 30ml - Wonderland

This type of decal is a little uncommon and should not be confused with water-slide decals or vinyl self-adhesive decals. Wet self-adhesive decals have adhesive on the rear of the decal, which when wet with water, allows the decal to be moved into the correct position before carefully wiping away any access water. This causes the decal adhesive to bond to the model permanently. A small amount of washing up liquid added to the water will help the decal to slide better until you are happy that you have it in the correct position. Decals (or transfers, or whatever you want to call them) can, when done properly, bring a lot to a miniature. But for whatever reason, following the instructions that come with them is guaranteed to result in a really crap result that looks awful.Edit @ October 2016: as above, use a spray lacquer. Another gloss coat protects the decal and gives it an even finish which matches the paint underneath. Maybe I should have explained a bit more. The primary reason for decal setting solution is to decrease the surface tension of the water. If the water does not fully wet the paint, air bubbles will be trapped between the decal and the paint, and the glue will not adhere as well. Some folks ad a tiny drop of detergent to improve wetting, others use both a drop of detergent and setting solutions. Also, use soft water if you can. We use a Secure Server for collecting personal and credit card information. The secure server layer (SSL) encrypts (scrambles) all of the information you enter before it is transmitted over the Internet and sent to us. All of the customer data we collect is protected against unauthorised access as per the Data Protection Act. So I found some old decals and a painted piece of plastic with both bumps and grooves, put a layer of Pledge on it, let it dry, and then affixed two old decals to the plastic. One I treated with pure white vinegar and the other I treated with my wifes finger nail polish remover (composed mainly of Acetone). SKY RC e680 AC/DC 80W Charger The SkyRC e680 Universal Charger is easy to use and at the same time offers a variety of features. All popular battery types such...

Revell Decal Soft, 30 ml - 3DJake UK

Edit @ October 2016: be very careful when soaking up the excess softener as any agitation can cause the decal to warp or break! Below is an overview of the decal process, so give it a read and get your models looking as incredible as possible! As always, model making is as much about follow instructions as it is about following your own creativity. Decals are a great way to enhance your model even further, so add them where you see fit and make your model stand out! Your decal soft is a solution which will soften the decal film allowing the decal to conform more closely to the surface of the model, hopefully to get that painted on look we all want. There is no guarantee that it will prevent silvering. You might be able to mitigate silvering by piercing a decal with a needle or the end of a scalpel blade and flooding it with a decal solution, but again, there is no guarantee. It's far better to get it right initially and that's why I always recommend a gloss coat of your choice. It's only one more step in the process and the final desired finish can be achieved with a final coat of a suitable varnish. Edit @ October 2016: nowadays I spray the entire model with a clear lacquer from Halfords (recommended to me by Phil Stutcinskas, a member of the Forge World studio), instead of painting varnish onto the surface where the decal is going to be applied. This protects the model, eliminates brush marks, and ensures an even finish. A layer of gloss varnish provides a smooth surface for the decal to adhere to.

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The best way I’ve found to solve this is to give the surface a coat of gloss varnish before I apply the miniature. I have a pot of Games Workshop ‘Ard Coat which I only rever use for this purpose: by brushing on a generous amount of varnish to the surface, you will get a nice smooth surface upon which you can apply the decal: all the troughs and peaks will be smoothed out and you won’t have air gaps underneath. I use the Microset/Microsol system myself. It's the blue bottle (MICROSET) which should be brushed onto the model. A dilute solution of white vinegar will serve the same purpose of softening the decal film slightly. The red bottle (MICROSOL) is the one that should be applied later and is a stronger solvent. It's one, or several, applications of this which will get that decal snuggled down. I use microsol and set and humbrol decal Fix. I soak the decals in decal Fix if I use that and brush the model too. Does a good job. As does the microscale stuff The latest discussion I could find on this was three years old so I decided rather than replying to it I would start a new topic.

Homemade Decal Solvent - FineScale Modeler - Essential Homemade Decal Solvent - FineScale Modeler - Essential

While this is often enough to keep the decal in place, if you feel it necessary you can use the second paint brush to apply the second decal solution on top of the decal. This will set it firmly. Once the decal is in position and you’ve removed the excess water, apply the softener with a brush and leave it for a couple of minutes, before soaking up the excess. A recent post on another forum advocated using Tamiya X-20 as a solvent for decals. I have yet to try it, but I will. I have a Hasegawa project with decals that just won't settle down with Microsol. First, of course, I'll try it on a "crash test dummy" with same clear coat and scrap decals.Decals consist of an image printed onto a thin film. The film is brittle and plastic, in the technical sense that it remembers its shape (a flat sheet) and will try to return to it if possible. That means that unless you’re applying the decal to a perfectly flat surface like a mirror, you’re going to end up with gaps underneath the decal, which will result in bubbles that will ruin the finish. Air gaps beneath the decal will result in an uneven finish