Lonely Planet Sri Lanka (Travel Guide)

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Lonely Planet Sri Lanka (Travel Guide)

Lonely Planet Sri Lanka (Travel Guide)

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What's New featuretaps into cultural trends and helps you find fresh ideas and cool new areas our writers have uncovered Stop in Kappalady on the Indian Ocean for kitesurfing lessons with local instructors at Kite Center Sri Lanka. The kite school can arrange kitesurfing safaris (tours) to nearby spots such as Donkey Point, Dutch Bay and Vella Island for more experienced kiteboarders. Other activities in Kappalady include exploring the lagoons by kayak and ethical dolphin-watching tours where large pods of spinner dolphins swim in their hundreds. Good operators will only charter small boats, keep their distance from the pods, and avoid feeding the animals. There are also a few accommodation options by the beach in Kappalady. 6. Camp in the Haputale mountains Numerous places set up tables and chairs right up to the tide line day and night. Wander and compare which one has the freshest seafood. All are good for a beer; some also serve espresso coffee. Planning tip: Arrive early in the morning to beat the sweltering sun and get the best of this wonderful archaeological park to yourself. The Polonnaruwa ruins are crowded during weekends, school holidays, and on the full moon. 17. Get close to nature with a stay in a treehouse Sri Lanka’s tropical beaches are unanimously adored. Crafted from a 1340km (833-mile) coastline, its countless topographically varied beaches, coves and bays attract sun-seekers, fun lovers and surfers throughout the year. Wildlife plays its part too – beaches are vital nesting grounds for endangered marine turtles, while blue whales are sighted at sea.

In Sri Lanka, buses fill the gaps train infrastructure can’t, connecting much of the country. There are both public and private buses to choose from. Cultural insightsgive you a richer, more rewarding travel experience - history, people, music, landscapes, wildlife, cuisine, politicsMost Lankan curries are based on coconut milk, with a blend of spices – including but not limited to chili, turmeric, cinnamon, cardamom, coriander, lemongrass, rampe (pandanus leaves), curry leaves, mustard, and tamarind. Get more travel inspiration, tips and exclusive offers sent straight to your inbox with our weekly newsletter. Kumana National Park, Eastern Province Best alternative to the crowded parks Southern Sri Lanka produces some of the world's best cinnamon, a lighter, more sweeter variety than is found in Indonesia and Vietnam. Travelers can learn about the highly prized Ceylon cinnamon by visiting Ganduwa Island on Koggala Lake, just south of Galle, by boat. You can hire a car or a motorbike in Sri Lanka if you have an International Driving Permit, however it’s not a common choice for travelers. High traffic in cities and poor road quality in regional and rural areas mean it is safer for travelers to rely on public transport and local drivers, unless they are extremely confident and capable. If you are considering driving or hiring a motorbike, we’d recommend you do this in less traffic-dense areas. Weather conditions can slow road travel This vast and popular park on the southern fringes of Sri Lanka’s Hill Country is mostly covered with low-lying scrub, so seeing Sri Lanka’s majestic elephants is very close to a dead cert.

As you travel around the country, you’ll often have occasion to pull over at a local restaurant for a rice and curry feast. Some of the best places are simple family-owned restaurants by the roadside, offering a daily selection of meat, fish, and veg dishes (sometimes with as many as 10 choices). It's a vastly more exciting introduction to Sri Lankan cuisine than eating at a tourist restaurant where the spices are toned down. For a better and more conscientious safari experience, head to Wilpattu National Park in the northwest of the island and book with a responsible operator like Leopard Trails. Their guides don't chase after possible sightings, but they do turn off their vehicle engines near animals. They will also whisper near any sighting so as not to disturb the animals. As well as leopards, the park is also home to Asian elephants, sloth bears, and bark deer all in their natural habitats. It’s possible to make bookings 30 days in advance for reserved first- and second-class seats and berths, as well as for the observation saloon carriages. Demand often outstrips seat supply during high season (December to April), so plan ahead if you can. Domestic flight options are quite limited, which means the main contenders for transportation are trains, buses, tuk-tuks and private cars. We break down what you need to know about each. Take a scenic train journey between major towns and citiesGal Oya is a wilderness of tumbling mountains and ancient woodland surrounding a huge, island-filled lake. The few tourists who come here are rewarded with unique experiences. The Gal Oya Lodge runs boat safaris where you can spot crocodiles, turtles, and swimming elephants, as well as immersive walks around the forest guided by members of the local Veddah community. If you’re looking to stay put in Sri Lanka for a while, keep in mind that imported products like chocolates, biscuits, cheese, and cosmetics are expensive and hard to find. Shop for local brands at supermarkets and grocery stores. It’s always cheaper to buy fresh vegetables, fruits, and cooking ingredients from small stalls by the road or the local market. Seek out women-run health food outlets for vegan and vegetarian meals

For the most part, Sri Lankans are socially conservative and deeply religious. Swimwear is fine for the beach, but not when wandering about town. Going nude or topless is not permitted on any Sri Lankan beaches. 10. Avoid public affection and disruptive behavior To celebrate Eid, Muslim families in Sri Lanka prepare a coconut custard called watalappan sweetened with jaggery and topped with cashews for extra crunch. Tourists are less common in Jaffna and the north where a distinct Sri Lankan Tamil Hindu culture predominates. Respect local etiquette when visiting Hindu temples – ask for permission before entering as non-Hindus are barred from entering some shrines. Some temples also require men to remove shirts and enter bare-chested (for example, Jaffna’s vast Nallur Kandaswamy Kovil). 12. Show respect to Buddha images While Sinharaja Forest Reserve is Sri Lanka's top destination for birders, small Lahugala National Park is well worth visiting for avian encounters. Come in the late afternoon, when you can also watch elephants and buffalo grazing peacefully in the water-logged beru grass. The park's forests of tall satinwood, rosewood, and palu trees are home to dozens of species of forest birds, including the rare red-faced malkoha.On the way there, you’ll rattle past rolling hills, paddy fields, lush stands of tropical forest, palm trees waving like giant hands and miniature village train stations with tin roofs and station attendants standing at attention in immaculate uniforms. You’ll also feel the air cool as you leave the baking coastal plain for the more pleasant climate of the hills. The hike will take you over rivers, past waterfalls, and through lush cloud forests before you arrive at a vantage point that is famed for sightings of whistling thrushes and Sri Lankan bush warblers. You won’t see much in the way of mammalian wildlife up here, but that doesn’t matter when the birdlife and flora are this seductive. Sri Lanka was one of the countries worst affected by the 2004 Indian Ocean tsunami, which swept away more than 35,000 people and devastated many coastal areas. Following the disaster, early warning systems have been put in place in major towns and resorts, but not in rural, isolated areas, so be alert to signs of earthquakes and tsunamis. Where to try it: For a pol roti meal in Colombo, drop in at the ever-popular Culture Colombo. Not far away is The Cauldron, a charming cafe that dishes up kotthu made with pol roti. Go for a lamprais brunch on Sunday

The monsoon season is also a great time to explore the country’s east coast with sandy beaches, a vibrant surf scene, and abundant wildlife. The period between June and August offers world-class conditions for kitesurfing in Kalpitiya. Things get quiet during the shoulder season in October and November, but you’ll be able to find cheaper accommodation options when the south coast slowly opens up. Take the airport bus The trip from Colombo to Kandy is just a warm-up for Sri Lanka’s most beautiful train ride: the British-era Main Line, built as a conduit for Sri Lanka’s most famous export: tea. Sri Lanka is home to an estimated 4000 wild Asian elephants, best seen in their natural habitats, the country’s national parks. During the dry months from July to September, the large reservoirs in Kaudulla and Minneriya National Parks draw herds of wild Asian elephants where they graze on grass, bathe and play together. Hot days see elephants sheltering in the nearby jungles, but in the afternoon, around 4pm, they slowly emerge. This is your chance to see hundreds of the creatures hanging out by the lakes, the largest gathering of wild elephants in the world. As the financial capital, Colombo is a transport hub from which trains spring off across the whole country. They travel east to the city of Kandy and down into Nuwara Eliya – a town in tea country. Northbound trains reach the cities of Anuradhapura and Jaffna. The best ways to get around in Sri Lanka at any time of year Lahugala Kitulana National Park, Eastern Province Best for combining history with birdwatching

Galle Fort is an eccentric mix of Portuguese, Dutch and British architectural influences surrounded by spas, luxury hotels, souvenir shops, ice cream parlors and gem boutiques. Come in the morning hours when the Fort lanes slowly open up. First, eat a hearty Sri Lankan breakfast at National Tea Rooms, which is the oldest existing cafe in Galle Fort run by a friendly Sri Lankan family since 1932. You'll never be short of flavourful food in Sri Lanka, but some dishes and experiences are seasonal, often tied to the island's cultural and religious festivities. While Sri Lanka's elephant orphanages have a mixed reputation, there are a few ethical operators close to Uda Walawe, in case you haven’t quite had your fill of cute jumbo toddlers. Start with the Elephant Transit Home, supported by the Born Free Foundation.



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