Responsiveness is comparable with other high tech ceramics and seems less inclined to migrate to the outer links on highly polished electroplated and stainless steel chains. Our advice is to take your time studying factors like the reputation of the brand, the materials used to manufacture the product and also comparing it to other products of a similar price in the Lube category. Wet lubes are used in all weather conditions but really come to the fore when riding in autumn and winter as they are water resistant so won’t get washed off riding through puddles or in a rainstorm. How often you need to lube your chain depends on how frequently you ride your bike and the conditions in which you ride it.

As well as its well-known multipurpose spray, WD40 does make a specialist bicycle chain lube, which is formulated for the job. Chain lube lowdown Tester Steph writes: “As a dry lube, it is designed for mixed riding, but mainly in dry conditions (it will work with the odd puddle or splash). The wax is supposed to wear off over time, and in the process of doing this, it leaves a cleaner chain by taking off any grime with it. So if the type of lube is unimportant for efficiency why is there so much choice? Alex Trimnell, Muc-Off’s CEO, has this advice: “Keeping your drivetrain clean and well-lubed is important for a smooth riding experience, but you need to make sure that you use the right lube for the conditions.” If you’re a regular commuter or a year-round long distance cyclist, then a wet lube is going to be our tip for you. It will not only last longer but also handle any weather conditions.

Muc-Off All Weather Lube

Every bike cupboard should have both a wet and dry lube. Dry lubes are for the driest conditions and cleanest chains. However, even a light rain shower will wash dry lube off the chain and it is less durable; an 80-mile ride in dry conditions can see lubrication drastically reduced. I'm now up to 150 miles on the original application, including rides in all weather and a deliberate 20-second soaking of the chain with a garden hose to see if I could shift it. That was 50 miles ago, and the chain is still smooth and quiet.

The best part about cycling is that you need very little to get going. There are a number of must-have pieces of equipment such as a helmet, high visibility clothing and lights, but apart from this small group, you don’t need anything extra. This really is one thing where dirt cheap is actually technically superior to all the potions, lotions and sauces they sell by the ounce. The only genuine hassle is the first degrease and clean - but you were doing that between regular lubes already, no? Thereafter I just pre-rinse the chain in boiling water, then rewax. Simon Nash of Green Oil, which makes environmentally friendly lubes, explains: “Wet lube was the original lubricant of choice. Early brands used something like car engine oil. Its consistency trumped basic spray lubricants that were primarily designed to displace water.I left the factory lube on like Sheldon Brown suggests, but after as little at 200 miles the chain was already 0.5% stretched.

Sometimes we aren’t always able to store a bike in a warm, safe place. People living in shared accommodation, student housing, flats or other types of arrangements may not be allowed to keep their bicycle in communal areas (where space is usually the biggest). I really rate Prolink ProGold if you just want a liquid lube that's clean and good in every condition. However, I've recently been using the Muc Off ceramic dry as I had about a bazillion samples to use up and I have to say I'd really forgotten how good it is both on and off road at this time of year. When conditions are reasonably dry then it lasts very well and I have used it without issue on road, gravel and mountain bike drivetrains, but I confess that my chains do get very regularly cleaned. If you prefer to layer on lube after lube without recourse to a brush and cleaner, then perhaps look elsewhere.The type of lube you choose to use comes down to several factors involving where and when you ride. If you are fastidious about cleaning your bike regularly, and often ride in inclement conditions, then wet lube is the right choice for you. Get recipient chains surgically clean, shake the bottle and then apply the metallic grey fluid to every link, holding some rag beneath to catch any overspill. Wax lubes are predominantly made of wax, although they'll have a carrier solvent to help the wax to penetrate into the chain. The wax forms a dry film which lubricates the chain and is less likely to attract grime. A wet lube from the team's supplier, Juice Lubes, is my default choice year-round. I prefer to have a lube on the drivetrain to cover all weather. We've heard of riders going much further than this without needing to apply more lubricant, but the review deadline is pressing...

PRSboy: Squirt seems to be the holy grail of lubes, as long as you don't mind reapplying after a wet ride. I've been most impressed. Mungecrundle: Having run out of dry lube, I used some Wurth motorcycle chain wax and have been using it ever since. Dries in a few minutes, keeps the chain clean and running smoothly. Only shortcoming is that as a spray lube you need to be careful that it doesn't get to where it isn't supposed to be. Big brands are typically a good place to put your money, and these companies pay lots of money to professional cyclists to advertise their goods. Argus Tuft: Dissolve a rounded teaspoon of grated paraffin wax in 100ml of shellite (I don't know what it's called over there – Stoddard's Solvent?). Using pliers, carefully pull the nozzle out of a R&R lube bottle and refill using a small funnel. Close enough to free. A small amount of moly or bearing grease – less is more – makes it even better.

GT85 PFTE Spray Lubricant (400ml)

Some brands recommend leaving the lube in place for a specific period of time before wiping off the excess, so read the manufacturer's instructions to make sure that you're doing it right. What’s the difference between wax and oil lube?