The Army Painter promises that Speedpaint is a real “one coat paint” and provide a consistent feel across the range. You can see it in the paint swatch below – the results of Speedpaints are more homogenous, whereas there is a broader distribution between light and dark in Contrast paints. Features DONE. Really. That’s it. The basing I’ll have to cover another day, but it’s essentially Vallejo Earth Texture sprayed with a green/brown, then had a few pigments mashed on top of it before a heavy coat of pigment fixer. Very very easy and effective basing. The grass tufts are Mininatur Tufts of Desert. I will be doing another article on the Kruleboyz themselves at a later date, but if you’d like to see full video tutorials on the Kruleboyz and more, you can find them on my Patreon. In this week’s Goonhammer Historicals we take a look at how to paint some of the most iconic uniforms of the Napoleonic Wars. Paint the Font with Baneblade Brown, Highlight with Karak Stone and edge highlight the tips of the font with Screaming Skull. Paint the frame with Baneblade Brown. Highlight armor and weapons with a VERY light drybrush of Vallejo Metal Color Exhaust Manifold (Focus near the top/front of these elements, the steel is not supposed to be shiny!

I wanted to have bone to be distinct to candles, so I used sepia for candles as it has a somewhat different colour to skeleton horde. From what I can tell, he appears to have used something similar (my suggestions) to the following process: When applying, I noticed that Speedpaints are a bit thinner and runnier than Contrast paints, and the medium pushes the paint into the recesses more aggressively, which helps to create a smoother result even on flat areas. On the other hand, I found Contrast paints slightly easier to control because of their higher viscosity. I felt it was easier to put them on smaller details without accidentally spilling into adjacent areas.Paint mouth, elbows, and knees with thinned Army Painter Purple tone. I did this to give the model some definition and to add a little color into the scheme where Basecoat the purity seal with Wraithbone, then add a wash of Agrax Earthshade and only do a single highlight of Wraithbone, or even skip the highlight alltogether.

Basecoat the purity seal with Khemri Brown, which is an old discontinued paint [you can also use Baneblade Brown]. The base was very fun to do, it was constructed mainly from thin slate and wood putty. This putty is great to use for bases, it dries fast and carves very easily. The little shrooms and critters on the base where especially fun to paint!I decided to add some gold reflections to the bottom of the blade with nazdreg yellow (imagine it's next to a gold leg). I also added some blue reflections with Aethematic blue to give it a daytime feel. For the white car, the base color was already done when we primed. You can now add shading using Contrast Paint, such as Space Wolves Grey. Normally I’d claim my guide is super fast but since RichyP probably finished his Cursed City collection in the time it took for you to read this sentence, I’ll have to settle for “easy” This one is super easy to slap some paint on. Here I just used the following Contrast Paints: Skeleton Horde (guess), Wyldwood (wood), Darkoath Flesh (rope and parchment) & Plaguebearer Flesh (grass).

They often need multiple coats to achieve a similar level of richness. Also, the pigment-based formula doesn’t really work with zenithal shading, as the opaque pigments will gather in the dark recesses and make them brighter, which is not exactly what you want. After I posted my contrast nmm gold tutorial recently I had a few people asking for a steel tutorial using the same contrast technique. That said, I still religiously use Agrax Earthshade and Nuln Oil and even have a secret stash of 20 year old inks, washes and glazes from the old citadel range that I scored off craigslist. Nothing like a box full of classic 1990s and 2000s era paints. A bit of medium and some time on the shaker and they are good as new! Drakenhoff all over the floors, making sure it goes into the recesses at the edge and the ones with the screws in them.

Iron Warriors

As I neglected to take step by step photos along the way, here are the methods/recipes I used to paint the Hobgrots alongside a couple of screenshots! When I last painted ruins like this, contrast didn’t exist, which mean that doing the beige stone wall took a surprisingly huge amount of effort. My hope was that this time I could use a substantially faster process thanks to the advent of the newer paints. I also wanted to shortcut some of the metal detailing if I possibly could, because I was definitely stung by the memory of how long getting these first lot done had taken. Finally, although the structural parts of the ruins are very similar, the details on the panels are different, with a more industrial theme than the Imperialis ruins. I decided to go with the box art for these and paint them metalic red, figuring that when I put these on the table I can have an Imperialis and a Manufactorum half of the board to make them look a bit distinct (which lines up with some of the other stuff I have for Dense and Difficult pieces nicely). The sculpt is by Seb Perbet and it's my favourite character from the set i think. I love everything that's going on in the scene. It's a mini diorama really with the goblin tripping out on shrooms and seeing his visions come to life! As you can see, the Speedpaints go on very nicely. With colours like Zealot Yelow, Sand Golem, and Fire Giant Orange you can create interesting shades of copper and gold or go wild and try out bolder metallic hues, like Plasmatic Bolt on the right leg. After that, I added Contrast: Volupus Pink on the membrenes and ears and around the eyes. Finished it off slopping on the Contrast Flesh Tearers Red on the all the claws

Then drybrush the gray parts with Celestra Gray. Avoid hitting the metal but it’s not the end of the world if you do. The goal is to add a lot of texture to this so be sure to hit the flat surfaces as well, pressing your brush down on them. I use a large drybrush for this. When applying, I noticed that Speedpaints are a bit thinner and runnier than Contrast, and the medium pushes the paint into the recesses more aggressively, which helps to create a smoother result even on flat areas. On the other hand, I found Contrast paints slightly easier to control because of their lower viscosity. I felt it was easier to put them on smaller details without accidentally spilling into adjacent areas.Here I just smooshed on Contrast: Guilliman Flesh on the skin & Contrast: Space Wolves Grey on the fur. You could have waited to do the agrax wash on the cloth until after the metals and such are done to save a bit of time here. Overall I’m happy. They are a little messier than my normal minis mostly because I was pushing to get them done. However even if I slow down it won’t take too long and is easily replicated! And finally edge highlighted very sparingly with (again the name has worn off, but I think its aluminum.) You can basically reuse the recipes from above for everything else with little tweaks here and there as needed.